ConcoursMustang Forums
1st Generation 1964 1/2 - 1973 - Questions & general discussions that apply to a specific year => 1964 1/2 - 1965 => Topic started by: Brian Conway on July 22, 2017, 06:21:12 PM
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My car has a T-ten B/W transmission with the 4 speed shifter, rods, tabs and Ford shifter with reverse lock out. In a previous discussion I learned that the HEH-BT close ratio trans is the assembly line part correct for my May of 65 San Jose GT. I also learned that the present shifter, rods and tabs would need to be replaced ? Looking for some help with that. My shift lever with reverse lock out finger pull should swap to another shifter body OK ? The Ford shifter bodies usually have no identifying numbers or marks but are all the same up to 68 ? Do the Ford rods and tabs carry any identifying numbers or marks ? Thanks for any help with this. Brian
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Brian,
Download this http://squarebirds.org/Manuals/1965/1965-72FordPartsTextCatalog/ and you will have your answer. It's what I would have to do from my paper copy but my back is aching again.
Jim
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Contact Bill Healey in Olney, Maryland, He is a FORD shifter rebuilder and expert!
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Didn't Bill Healey move to North Carolina?
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Didn't Bill Healey move to North Carolina?
Randy - no. You are confusing him with Bill Herndon.
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Aha! Thank you!
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Does anyone remember the name of Bill Healey's web site ?
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Bill Heeley's site on Ebay is vfmsshop if anyone needs parts or rebuild.
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Bill Heeley rebuilt the factory shifter in my Shelby. Night and day difference. Functionally perfect. The down side is if you're looking for a concours assembly it won't pass. He doesn't plate, he paints the parts.
-Keith
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Am I tired?
I'm trying to install my shifter lever on 4 speed manual on my may65FB Metuchen and logically the rubber should be on the shifter hole with bolt going on thru it. Well, shifter hole as 9mm, bolt has 10mm and need shifter hole with 11mm to put the rubber inside the hole with bolt going thru it.
So, seems that or both shifter holes has the wrong diameter or bolts and rebuild kit rubbers are not correct. What do you think about this?
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Am I tired?
I'm trying to install my shifter lever on 4 speed manual on my may65FB Metuchen and logically the rubber should be on the shifter hole with bolt going on thru it. Well, shifter hole as 9mm, bolt has 10mm and need shifter hole with 11mm to put the rubber inside the hole with bolt going thru it.
So, seems that or both shifter holes has the wrong diameter or bolts and rebuild kit rubbers are not correct. What do you think about this?
Since the hole ,bolts, etc. should not be metric I would first make sure the bolts fit properly in the shifter control . Maybe a mix up in hardware? New shifter handle or old shifter handle?
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Am I tired?
I'm trying to install my shifter lever on 4 speed manual on my may65FB Metuchen and logically the rubber should be on the shifter hole with bolt going on thru it. Well, shifter hole as 9mm, bolt has 10mm and need shifter hole with 11mm to put the rubber inside the hole with bolt going thru it.
So, seems that or both shifter holes has the wrong diameter or bolts and rebuild kit rubbers are not correct. What do you think about this?
Do you have the American/English and Metric gauges and tools to verify what you got? Remember this. No metric hardware was used on Mustangs thru 1973.
(I had to have both types of tools an gauges because in the early 1970s I raced VWs.)
Jim
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Hi Jim.
9mm is 23/64 approximately and bolt has 25/64 and to install the rubber on shifter lever with bolt passing thru lever holes should have 28/64.
looking forward to know what is wrong as bolt should not be smaller and shifter lever seems to be hardened and not easy to enlarge holes.
please send photos.
Jos
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First, get "metric" out of your mind completely. You are dealing with car that uses an American/British measurement system, close does not count. You should get a set of these -
https://www.amazon.com/ChgImposs-Imperial-Whitworth-Industrial-Measurement/dp/B07J9V9JTK/ref=sr_1_5?crid=U3XTHASW5DKG&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.5B0jCuFn60Lj56-Cli_E72KNxVPvDC-z0zU6cPlpxNkxiLe2_NRsRW3BWTVDfzCOD3fUOfbaHfsiWJtLqKzzQyqt393NjD5PIevPNH-MkQLWnzO3rMLXPZAqcmhMQ0JalBXKO17eGtqG3XGCoxn0Bo0UqRtmH9rPpFqJI59DAixj1_mlnMPCtb3d8Gx39AwjYEO_ll-o4q3SEeSOnZQqyBD4bf9NIMTlpBkulmY1bFk.ujWTZ07pcRmuQjZCGZ1Ai-WYmHQtchKxaOYhnORGbVU&dib_tag=se&keywords=screw%2Bthread%2Bgauge&qid=1736655653&sprefix=thread%2Bga%2Caps%2C210&sr=8-5&th=1
- and one of these -
https://www.amazon.com/Hornady-050075-Steel-Dial-Caliper/dp/B000NSEYJM/ref=sr_1_33?crid=2WCJIW92HB653&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.hBNJz9STGKkeUf8sSshV4oyKZyx-It5oeNbJzLSQDDcSFw0OlAkwz56fUpjiz5kolPMYirSrwx7MdAekRu3XlGl_nC0cGdmeZLLU7Jfp8xyFDFJzdBeOODw0F26Bh1opF_jzRk3MvguC46xAKAWdzvAZpwL_bH97l5bsc6U98M62Zve8c92Xf9OmBHJ473HKd9ObE4TKsDRyeO9OCr4LKLAm4zv8uNmDhDz04E5b2Ks.2r_lZEyZLOQdrQ6qgQoCOt4DZH6GsVEtCcBz100Fjhw&dib_tag=se&keywords=dial%2Bcaliper%2B12%2Binch&qid=1736655843&sprefix=dial%2Bca%2Caps%2C202&sr=8-33&xpid=868LUGIaRqg6f&th=1
(I have at least two sets of both, one at my computer desk, the other in my garage.)
Jim
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Thanks Jim, very kind as usual.
I really need some photos or figure out what is happening why I can't assembly my shifter lever in place with correct rebuild kit (I suppose) with 2 bolts, 2 rubbers and 2 washers.
Regards
Jos
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Hi Bob,
that's exactly main issue, bolts are larger than shifter lever holes (only thread go in) so I'm not able to install the rubber and put bolt inside the lever, as shown on the photo bolt do not go further. Does exists different holes diameters on levers and I do not have the correct bolt and rubber for mine?
Thanks for your help
Jos
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Hi Bob,
that's exactly main issue, bolts are larger than shifter lever holes (only thread go in) so I'm not able to install the rubber and put bolt inside the lever, as shown on the photo bolt do not go further. Does exists different holes diameters on levers and I do not have the correct bolt and rubber for mine?
Thanks for your help
Jos
You still never answered if the shifter lever is a new one (never before installed) or old (original that was on before)? It is ether a issue of the hardware being wrong or the shifter handle being made wrong. There were not two size holes that I am aware of originally. The rubber bushings should fit snug but allow the bolts to go through. If your hardware threads into the shifter control and looks like the picture then you know that the hardware part is right. Of course If you haven't left anything out and going only by the things that you say then drilling out the holes on the shifter lever will solve the problem. You may or may not want to pursue other alternatives like sending back to mfg if a new one recently purchased.
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Hello Bob,
shifter level it's an old one.
Not in the car when I bought it, unfortunately is not easy to drill lever holes as it's heat hardened as regular drill bits doesn't drill it.
If there wasn't to sizes I can't figure out what is causing this.
sorry for the trouble and thanks
Jos
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Hello Bob,
shifter level it's an old one.
Not in the car when I bought it, unfortunately is not easy to drill lever holes as it's heat hardened as regular drill bits doesn't drill it.
If there wasn't to sizes I can't figure out what is causing this.
sorry for the trouble and thanks
Jos
Maybe since the shifter lever wasn't in the car when you got it that it didn't go to the car but from another application.
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Let's do a simple "test". The correct shoulder bolt, 379818-S8 has a screw threat of 5/16-18 with an effective thread length of 15/32, almost 1/2 inch (or 13MM). Remove ONE fender bolt and use that as a gauge to check the threaded hole in the shifter and the screw thread on the shoulder bolts. The fender bolts have a thread of 5/16-18 (the same as the shoulder bolt) and can be "tried" to match both the external threads of the bolt and internal threads of the shifter. For reference, 379818-S8 is available from AMK products https://www.amkproducts.com/ AMK stock number B-12630.
Jim
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Hello Jim.
the tread is that one but shifter hole has 5/16 too but bolt diameter where rubber should be placed is wider
Thanks
Jos
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I suppose you can check to see how much a machine shop will charge to drill the 2 holes to the proper size or buy a different handle that has the typical diameter holes.
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Sort of good news bad news. Your not crazy for one but I found out what the problem is. It is a early shifter lever used the small hole shift handle (not positive on the application)and the later style 65-67 Mustang used the large hole style with the rubber bushings and odd bolts. I found the shift lever among my parts and posted a comparison picture to show the difference. It has been so long ago I don't remember what car it came off of . It is not the bent style like is typical 64 1/2 Mustang style. You are left with the same options as talked about before. I seem to remember a set up like this that used a regular bolt and a rubber coated steel washer under the head.
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I would mention that drilling out the hole should not be a option IMO. The small hole has a thinner base then the large hole lever. The larger hole is not straight through . The hole goes a little less then have way and then has a lip before continuing the rest of the way. The center of the rubber bushing sits in that lip. I don't think it is worth the trouble to replicate that design. I think your best option is to buy ether the early bent shifter lever if you think it is appropriate for your build or the later curved 65-67 lever. Of course you could stick some regular bolts in it with the mention steel coated rubber washer or equivalent and see how that works out. Given the trouble of fitting the boot and the taking up of carpet to change a shifter lever I would want a sure thing the first time.
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Thanks Bob,
happy find I'm not getting crazy...just older. I remember now another detail, when I rebuild my 4 speed transmission I noticed that the lever knob was not the correct one but didn't think that the lever simply was not from this assembly.
Yeah I'll try to find one already rebuild with new rubbers on the "T" as most of you recommend on several other posts.
Thanks to Jim too for his "deep technical" help
Jos
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For reference, this is what Ford Engineering "designed" (although not what the assembly line always did).
From the "1964-65 Mustang Chassis Assembly Manual" (AM0005 page 28) -
Jim