ConcoursMustang Forums
1st Generation 1964 1/2 - 1973 - Questions & general discussions that apply to a specific year => 1970 Mustang => Topic started by: machm1970 on March 26, 2015, 08:40:04 PM
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I purchased a repo instrument printed circuit for my '70. When I installed it I noticed one of the holes for the studs was off center. After installing it the temp gauge pegged out, the off center hole caused a nut to ground out on the case. I remedied it by putting a rubber washer under that stud. More bad repo parts.
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I have run across more than a dozen customers who have complained about the repro circuit cards; I have even talked with NPD and West Coast Cougar representatives about it and they claim they don't seem to have a problem. I hate those cards: a terrible design that Ford introduced to *ahem* "improve reliability" *ahem*.
There is an alternative, but I know the concours folks won't use my work-around: I can hard-wire 69-73 dash clusters. I can splice in to add or replace the existing dash cluster to a molex-type connector to the dash cluster wiring. To see how I developed the dash cluster wiring, go to this forum post on the 7173Mustang forum:
http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-can-the-instrument-cluster-be-hard-wired (http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-can-the-instrument-cluster-be-hard-wiredhttp://)
This process can also be used for the aftermarket dash clusters.
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http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-can-the-instrument-cluster-be-hard-wired (http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-can-the-instrument-cluster-be-hard-wiredhttp://)
This process can also be used for the aftermarket dash clusters.
I couldn't get the link to work. Do you have to be a member of that board to see your post?
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Well nuts! I guess you do. Here's an alternative link:
http://1969stang.com/forum/index.php?/topic/53089-doing-away-with-the-dash-cluster-circuit-cards/ (http://1969stang.com/forum/index.php?/topic/53089-doing-away-with-the-dash-cluster-circuit-cards/)
http://classiccougarcommunity.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=4716 (http://classiccougarcommunity.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=4716)
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Well nuts! I guess you do. Here's an alternative link:
http://1969stang.com/forum/index.php?/topic/53089-doing-away-with-the-dash-cluster-circuit-cards/ (http://1969stang.com/forum/index.php?/topic/53089-doing-away-with-the-dash-cluster-circuit-cards/)
http://classiccougarcommunity.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=4716 (http://classiccougarcommunity.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=4716)
Thanks, Randy. That link is working fine. I'm curious--what kind of failures are you experiencing on these repro. circuits? I have a repro. in my '69 Mach. I did have a problem with it grounding the gauges out, and I've also had an annoying problem where significant bumps will sometimes make one or more of the dash lights go out. I assumed this was due to my having LEDs in place of the original 194 bulbs. Even after using dielectric grease, bending the LED contacts for a more snug fit, etc., nothing works. I've just been living with it for the time being. But maybe it's something to do with the printed circuit?
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I don't have a 69-73 Mustang/Cougar, so all I can report is what I hear from my customers. With well over 350 of them, I believe I am seeing a representative sample of circuit board issues. The complaints I hear is that bulbs don't work, gauges don't work, and when another board is bought, sometimes it now works correctly or another set of problems arise. When I assist in the trouble-shooting, it always concludes that the dash cluster/circuit board is bad.
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I have the npd circuit board, works fine. I have seen a new more correct looking reproduction board, it's green, they look a lot better than the paper based boards. Was thinking about getting one before installing the new dash pad
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One of my pals that does auto electrical work told me what he wants on his tombstone.
"The man knew his grounds".
All circuits in a car must return to the negative side of the battery. When I had my original Mylar board out for a tach repair, I replaced all the grounds and added a few extra. When grounding dash devices to the sheet metal, there is no guarantee that the dash circuits have a good ground. Rivets and or spot welds can get loose, copper in the wires can fracture, and so forth.
I made a SAE J rated 8 gauge wire 17 feet long with 2 monster flat nose copper clamps. When I want to investigate a electrical gremlin, I attach one end of the cable to the negative side of the battery and the other end to a distribution block. From there smaller jumpers can be used to drop in grounds to qualify circuits. You would be surprised at how many electrical failures are caused by bad grounds. Most guys replace the device which failed due to a bad ground, and when they disturbed the ground during the device replacement the ground started to work. The problem is that American cars are minimally grounded to start with. American cars have 3 or 4. Japanese cars have 12 or 13. That is one reason how the Japanese earned a reputation for reliable cars.
The new Mylar board can be qualified to some extent with a multi meter, a variable resistor, and a 12 volt power source before it's installed.
How is it grounded? Where does that ground go? Is the negative battery to frame, to engine block, to firewall, to dash good? If a guy is cursing the repop Mylar board for not working, and it could very well be crap, has he replaced the grounds on his 50 year old car?
Go to a Marine supply house, usually they have the good electrical stuff.