Topic: Finish confirmation on a few parts

[390Pony]

Wasn't sure which discussion area to post this....looking for confirmation on a few part finishes....67 S-code, Dearborn

Accelerator Shaft - pedal mounts to it
Clutch Equalizer shaft - connects pedal assy. to Z bar through the firewall 
Misc. Steering parts - Idler Arm, Idler Arm bracket, center link, pitman arm

Are all Phosphate and oil ?

[jwc66k]

Wasn't sure which discussion area to post this....looking for confirmation on a few part finishes....67 S-code, Dearborn

Accelerator Shaft - pedal mounts to it
Clutch Equalizer shaft - connects pedal assy. to Z bar through the firewall 
Misc. Steering parts - Idler Arm, Idler Arm bracket, center link, pitman arm

Are all Phosphate and oil ?

All are natural, but you can approximate a natural look by phosphate and oil.
Jim

[390Pony]

Thx Jim....could a very light application of gun bluing solution then steel wool to even it out, then oil appoximate as well ?

[TLea]

Accel arm is phosphate
Z bar is bare steel
idler arm, pitman arm are heat treated. gun bluing will get the look

[J_Speegle]

Accel arm is phosphate
Z bar is bare steel
idler arm, pitman arm are heat treated. gun bluing will get the look

+1

[jwc66k]

Using gun bluing is tricky and can get expensive. The trick is what to do after you've applied it. The phosphate process uses oil as a final surface treatment and I don't see why it can't be used after gun blue. I have a couple of black powder revolvers that I made from kits years back and the bluing is still rust free but they were not subjected to moisture, are cleaned regularly and oiled. Parts that are heat treated should be darker in shade, almost black, than a natural finish. That would apply to the forged arms and to the accelerator bar (springs, tie rod ends, spindles too). I use the metal blackening concentrate from Eastwood to get a dark shade prior to the phosphating. For a more natural looking steel, a shortened dip in a phosphate bath, two to three minutes, with a lower amount of the phosphate concentrate followed by steel wool, single 0, then oil it (WD-40).
Jim

[J_Speegle]

The "gun bluing" that is typically used in these applications is the application of the "repair fluid" not the real bluing process. Because of this no heat us used, it takes seconds and can be treated (like P & O ) with any of the oil process for a long life (well as long as any other oil coating holds up.  Sicne it does not use heat its a good IMHO choice for many items such as ones with rubber boots or unsealed items like tie rod ends. Tim did a nice class at the MCA Judges meeting two years ago where he refinished pieces in just minutes at in front of the judges.

The tone (darkness) can be adjusted by the method of application of the fluid and  how it it handed after. Steel wooled, burnished,  tumbled or left alone can all produce different appearances to reproduce the original heat treated or even phosphate - I've been using it on show cars since the 80's . Not the only choice just an alternative many are using.











Also works great and reproducing the bluing welding produced on original parts (PS rams & drivelines are two examples of this)




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[Pete Bush]

Can you, Tim, or others provide a more detailed explanation of the gun bluing process? Steps taken for the different levels of darkness and finish?

[ruppstang]

Jeff and Tim this is a tech that we should do again at the judges meeting. I think it should also be done at the BOD meeting some time. After I saw how good the parts looked and how easy it was to do I was convinced it was the way to go. If there is better education I think the bare metal finish proposal would have a good chance of being adopted in the MCA rules. Marty

[TLea]

Jeff and Tim this is a tech that we should do again at the judges meeting. I think it should also be done at the BOD meeting some time. After I saw how good the parts looked and how easy it was to do I was convinced it was the way to go. If there is better education I think the bare metal finish proposal would have a good chance of being adopted in the MCA rules. Marty

I'd be happy to. The hardest part is convincing the TSA agents that center link isn't a gun part

[carlite65]

i'd like to see more 'tech' stuff too at the meetings. maybe you could ship your materials in advance via ups. then ask mca to p/u the shipping costs.

[CharlesTurner]

Won't hurt to ask.  If the meeting this year goes like the one last year, it will be the old round-table format.

[J_Speegle]

Can you, Tim, or others provide a more detailed explanation of the gun bluing process? Steps taken for the different levels of darkness and finish?

Have a new article for the site that is in draft form that I should be able to get to (right now there is three weeks of shows back to back) fairly soon. Though a simply worded response might fill your need (for long term the article can be available to members in the library) if your doing things real soon

[Pete Bush]

Thanks, Jeff. I can wait until things calm down for you. 
I really enjoyed Jim's Phosphate & Oil write-up, and would benefit too from the gun bluing.
The article would be a good resource for those of us that can't attend a MCA judge's meeting.

[390Pony]

Thanks for all the responses and pointers. Jeff...The pics of finished parts from using the bluing technique look great and give me something to shoot for. I'll report back with some pics.