Topic: 67-70 AC-Heater Vacuum Pod Finish Discussion

[67gtasanjose]

Again, working on the Select-Aire on my 67:

Has anyone found a product (paint?) to refinish the vacuum pods with? It was originally a greenish coating like sometimes seen on carburetors.

[J_Speegle]

Again, working on the Select-Aire on my 67:

Has anyone found a product (paint?) to refinish the vacuum pods with? It was originally a greenish coating like sometimes seen on carburetors.

Would play with the green spray Eastwood sold as part of the four pack of paints used to fake zinc dichromate. Use it to tint 66-67 smog pieces and 67-up ported vacuum switches/bodies

[67gtasanjose]

Would play with the green spray Eastwood sold as part of the four pack of paints used to fake zinc dichromate. Use it to tint 66-67 smog pieces and 67-up ported vacuum switches/bodies

Eastwood sku# 10334Z, Zinc Dichromate Green Step #3, 12 oz is available by itself.

Ordered, and thank you for this suggestion. I included a can of their bare metal clear but wonder if I should topcoat the green coating or not.

On another note, back to the heater/ac restorations...now working on the separate Blower Assembly,
I had difficulty getting the rusted squirrel cage off of the motor, the metal shaft of the motor is very soft that even a brass drift was peening the shaft.  I devised a way to use an OTC 7185 (name brand of tool) Power Steering Pulley Puller tool on the squirrel cage hub that worked fabulously without destroying the squirrel cage. This modified the hub to accept the style tool I have to press the motor shaft though. It involved running the blower motor (while held down) and using a cut-off wheel ( with a disc that was half worn down), and while the assembly was spinning, I cut a groove into the hub very close to the center of the set screw that was the intended method Ford used to secure the squirrel cage to the motor (set screw was removed). This was where the tool gripped the hub of the squirrel cage. 

NOTE: I needed to cut down a hardened metric bolt which fit snuggly inside the hole of the tool, then cut it off to length, leaving enough threads of the tool available to have a 'full press" of the shaft. In my particular tool it was a size 12 shouldered bolt and I first cut the head of the 12 mm shouldered bolt off (using cut-off wheel), measured the length needed to do this function, gripped this "remainder of the bolt' with the chuck of a 3/8" power drill, spun the bolt with the drill while first cutting off to length, then machining (again with my cut-off wheel) the improvised driver adapter down to a size smaller than the shaft of the motor (my eyes say it was just under 5/16").

(look at 1st picture below to see the improvised driver adapter located in front of the PS pulley tool & the original tool adapter)

[carlite65]

great solution there. i'll have to remember that one!

[J_Speegle]

Richard - new trick WITH pictures

Your the man   

[krelboyne]

For the stubborn shafts we use a drop of Pure Oil of Wintergreen, not the extract.

[67gtasanjose]

For the stubborn shafts we use a drop of Pure Oil of Wintergreen, not the extract.

Good idea Scott, I will have to get some and try on similar stubborn, rusty items.

I thought the overnight "virgin" Evaporust soak would help (well, it sure made the wheel look great!) but I think also since I had smacked on the shaft with a brass punch & hammer that I peened it a little too...but I get things like this all the time in the car repair business...often without time to let things "soak" so I tend to go to the "Get-err dunn" thinking right away...which isn't always the BEST approach on our Classic or Antique vehicles.

[67gtasanjose]

Would play with the green spray Eastwood sold as part of the four pack of paints used to fake zinc dichromate. Use it to tint 66-67 smog pieces and 67-up ported vacuum switches/bodies

OK, I played a little with it (Eastwood sku# 10334Z, Zinc Dichromate Green Step #3, 12 oz)

Removed original finish on a <spare> vacuum actuator, right out of the can it comes out "too gold", experimented with a few base colr options & ended up with a black base (light mist at about a foot away), quickly misted with the Eastwood green dichromate and repeat. I took several pictures but the flash changes the actual results. Still looks good enough to me in this one I shared, most like what I am ACTUALLY seeing in person.(taken with natural back-light, no flash). Actual color somewhere between the "gold" highlights & the "green" darker areas.

[J_Speegle]

OK, I played a little with it (Eastwood sku# 10334Z, Zinc Dichromate Green Step #3, 12 oz)

Removed original finish on a <spare> vacuum actuator, right out of the can it comes out "too gold",...........

If used straight by itself its just green in my experiences.

It should be noted that since this post is in the 69-70 section those cans are typically blue - still a tint rather than a painted looking finish

We seem to have deviated just a little from the original focus

[kammertime]

What type of fasteners were used in the engine compartment to secure the heater box to the firewall ? I have 2 heater boxes, one has the PAL speed nuts and the other has regular screw on flanged nuts. Dearborn, Feb-March, 1969.

Thanks,
John

[Vcode]

What type of fasteners were used in the engine compartment to secure the heater box to the firewall ? I have 2 heater boxes, one has the PAL speed nuts and the other has regular screw on flanged nuts. Dearborn, Feb-March, 1969.

Thanks,
John

Stamped nuts with sealer.
AMK sells them (F-2855) for non A/C

[J_Speegle]

What type of fasteners were used in the engine compartment to secure the heater box to the firewall ? I have 2 heater boxes, one has the PAL speed nuts and the other has regular screw on flanged nuts. Dearborn, Feb-March, 1969.

As mentioned above just the stamped sheet metal nuts with some sealer in the hex recess. Since these are going to be covered with sealer when you spray the firewall unrusted originals can be reused with success.

[ninedrvr]

If used straight by itself its just green in my experiences.

It should be noted that since this post is in the 69-70 section those cans are typically blue - still a tint rather than a painted looking finish

We seem to have deviated just a little from the original focus

Does anyone know of a technique that restores the blue 69/70 cans?

[J_Speegle]

Does anyone know of a technique that restores the blue 69/70 cans?

Are you looking for how to rebuild/repair or simply recoloring?

[ninedrvr]

3 of the 4 vacuum motors are mostly blue on one side with a misting of blue on the other. The forth one (a/c-heat motor) in silver. I'm looking for a spray color and spray technique to restore their original look. The diaphragms seem to be ok.